A Japanese Wanderer, Tsukubu — Tasting the Poetic Beauty of Japan and Beyond

 As soon as it turned 12 a.m. on the first day of 2025, I arrived at the Inari Shrine that is very close to my house (within 30 seconds). I was able to pray for my first shrine visit of 2025. Actually, I visit this Inari Shrine, named Sakumori Inari Shrine, almost every day, but not specifically to pray for personal wishes—just to show appreciation. Though it’s a very small shrine, it gives me an immeasurable sense of calm. This Sakumori Inari Shrine has been in this area since the Meiji period. It features a red entrance gate and two pairs of fox statues. They say that ancient people believed the fox was the messenger of God and a guardian angel for rice cultivation because the foxes appeared from the time farmers began cultivating rice in the spring until the harvest in autumn, then returned to the mountains in winter. To be honest, I hadn't paid much attention to the fox statues there. In fact, I used to feel a bit scared of them. However, now that I understand their significanc...

  At last, it's New Year's Eve, and today I'm going to make soba for lunch. The soba eaten on this day is called toshikoshi soba , or "year-crossing soba," a tradition that dates back to the Edo period. The reason for eating soba on New Year's Eve is that people hope to live long lives, like the long and slender shape of the noodles. Also, since soba is easy to cut, it symbolizes cutting off hardships and disasters, leaving them behind in the old year. Originally, soba was considered a celebratory meal to enjoy on New Year's Eve night. However, nowadays, people often eat it any time during the day. Many people visit soba restaurants on this day, and I think this change happened because it’s more convenient to be able to eat soba at any time on New Year's Eve. Since soba restaurants can make more business this way, it seems that eating toshikoshi soba anytime during the day on New Year's Eve has become the new custom. Today, I’m going to enjoy tosh...

  At the end of the year, many flower shops in Japan sell pine tree decorations called Kadomatsu . Kadomatsu is a traditional object used to welcome the divine Toshigami, the god of the New Year, from Heaven. Its history dates back to the Heian period. This year, I bought one too! However, there are many rules about when and how to place a Kadomatsu. For example, it’s best to avoid putting it up on December 29 because the number 29 (二九) sounds like "double suffering" (二重苦, nijūku ) in Japanese. Instead, it is recommended to set it up on December 28, as the number 8 (八) symbolizes "expanding" or "growth" in Japanese, so 28 (二八) represents "double expanding." Additionally, placing a Kadomatsu on December 31 is discouraged because it may upset the gods—it’s considered insincere to make a prayer with such little preparation time (only one night before the New Year). I managed to place mine on December 30, just in time! Traditionally, Kadomatsu is pla...

  Whenever I feel a little off or unwell, I drink Kakkontou and go to sleep. By the next morning, I feel refreshed and my body has recovered. Kakkontou is a traditional herbal medicine. The Kakkontou I usually drink is from Tsumura, and it comes in a granulated powder form. Herbal medicines, like Kakkontou, originally come from China, and I really respect China for this contribution to health and wellness. Tsumura has been a leading maker of herbal medicines since 1893. The package I use says it's specifically for relieving cold symptoms, but I believe it's helpful for a variety of issues, like body aches or general discomfort. Whenever I start to feel even the slightest bit "off," I drink some Kakkontou and sleep. It gives me peace of mind and helps me get back to feeling good.

  The Japanese-style sweets cafe "Okame" in Yurakucho, Tokyo, is a place I visited many times this year. I’m not quite sure why I feel so drawn to it, but perhaps it’s because the cafe serves nostalgic treats that remind me of my childhood, such as ohagi , anmitsu , and oshiruko . These were the kinds of sweets I used to enjoy with my family. Or maybe it’s the interior design. The folk art style they use reminds me of Matsumoto, Nagano, where I spent my cram school days. Either way, I went there again today. It was really busy, so I decided to take out goma ohagi (black sesame rice cake) and kinako ohagi (soybean flour rice cake). When I got home, I enjoyed them with a cup of Japanese tea. They were absolutely delicious, and I felt completely satisfied knowing these would be my last sweets of the year. Okame 2-7-1, Yurakucho, Tokyo, Japan

  Tonight, I had the pleasure of trying a Japanese sake called Yukinobousya for the first time. I was truly surprised by its beautiful taste. With every sip, I felt an overwhelming sense of refreshment, not just in my body, but in my heart as well. This sake is produced by Saiya Shuzoten, a sake brewery located in Yurihonjoshi, Akita, Japan. Saiya Shuzoten has been operating since the 35th year of the Meiji era. The Yukinobousya I drank tonight has won numerous awards and enjoys a strong reputation. As I enjoyed the sake, I realized just how deep and intricate the world of Japanese sake truly is. Saiya shuzoten Yurihonjoshi, Akita, Japan

  There is a unique park called America-yama Park in Motomachi, Yokohama. What makes it unique is that it is located on the rooftop of a building above the Motomachi-Chukagai Station on the Minatomirai Line. Taking the elevator to the rooftop, you are greeted by an elegant yet wild park. Even though it was a cold winter day, many roses were in full bloom. The name of the park is America-yama Park, which was originally planned as the site for the American embassy in the early Meiji period. There are several wooden benches where I sat, drinking coffee and admiring the roses. The strength of the roses in winter cheered me up, reminding me of the resilience of nature. America-yama park 97-1, Yamatecho, Yokohama, Japan

  There is my favorite cafe in Motomachi, Yokohama, which is called Cafe de Lento . When sitting there, I can feel that I dare to be in Paris, appearing chic outside of the cafe and decorating every corner inside the cafe with some French music. And they serve delicious and fine tartes that are all home-made and selected drinks, as well as beautifully arranged Niçoise French-tasting salad and beef stew. Today, I enjoyed the tart that was made of simmered apples and French tea that is named Marco Polo . The customers who come to here are mainly solo like me. They are enjoying the time with silence and chic. Cafe de Lento 5-213-101, Motomachi, Yokohama, Japan

  One thing that I think was really nice among the things I bought this year is a toaster called "Aladdin." It’s a toaster, but I haven’t used it just as a toaster. I cook fish, meat, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, and more in it. It cooks everything in about 15 minutes. After cooking, I don’t need to wash it, so it’s very convenient for someone like me who doesn't like to clean. What’s more, the meals that are cooked in it are very delicious, so it’s perfect for someone like me who loves to eat tasty food. Since it came to my house, I rarely go out for lunch or dinner anymore. Well, Aladdin is made by a company in Kasai, Hyogo. I believe the company named it "Aladdin" after the famous story of Aladdin and the Magic Lamp. True to its name, this toaster works like magic, creating delicious meals with ease. Naturally, the name "Aladdin" reminds us of the magic lamp, and in a way, this toaster really is like a kind of magic lamp for cooking!

  In Japan, there's a custom of taking a yuzu-yu bath on the first day of winter. This tradition dates back to the Edo period, and it was believed that taking a yuzu-yu bath would help prevent catching a cold during the winter season. During this time of year, many supermarkets stock fresh yuzu, a citrus fruit known for its refreshing scent and health benefits. The largest producer of yuzu in Japan is Kōchi Prefecture, which accounts for approximately 52% of the country's total yuzu production. Although I’ve seen yuzu in many supermarkets, I forgot to buy some. As a result, I haven’t had my yuzu-yu bath yet. But tonight, I’m finally going to enjoy my belated yuzu-yu bath, two days after the first day of winter.

  Every winter morning, while changing clothes, I always place a self-adhesive Hokkairo on my lower back. When I step out, I carry at least one or two with me. In fact, running out of Hokkairo is unthinkable – I'd simply stop by a convenience store to replenish my supply. This little warming patch is an indispensable part of my winter survival kit. However, until recently, I hadn't delved into its history. I discovered that the first Hokkairo was introduced in Japan in 1975. Interestingly, its roots can be traced back to "Onjyaku," a traditional practice in the Edo period where hot stones were placed inside kimonos for warmth. Today, Hokkairo has firmly established itself as a winter essential in Japan.

  The flower shop near my home recently started selling Japanese roses known as Wabara . These roses possess a delicate beauty, with soft, nuanced colors that evoke the spirit of Japanese Wabi-Sabi and have nostalgic, poetic names. Mr. Kunieda, a famous Wabara breeder, has shared that his dream is to create roses that resemble wild grasses, gently swaying in the wind. The Wabara roses are produced in Moriyama-shi, Shiga, and are available as return gifts through the hometown tax donation program in Shiga. Today, I purchased a Wabara from the flower shop. It is a soft, brownish-pink variety called Aoi-Fuga . Photo by Tsukubu WABARA Rose Farm KEIJI 1465, Sugiecho, Moriyamashi, Shiga, Japan

  I have been participating in an online English book club for a year now. The group is led by the teacher, who is also the owner of the online lesson, and all the participants are women from various parts of Japan. Last year, when I joined for the first time, we read Mary Poppins . I thought it was a children's book, but I found it really difficult. Nevertheless, I managed to finish reading it in English for the first time, and I felt both fulfilled and happy. This year, we're reading Charlie and the Chocolate Factory , another children's book, but it's still very challenging for me. We meet twice a month on Zoom for sessions that last over two hours. This month, we started Chapter 15. The book has 30 chapters in total, so it's like a half marathon!

 I am amazed by the power of Nigari. Nigari is the remaining liquid after boiling down seawater, and it mainly contains magnesium. It is often said that magnesium is really important for our health. I have tried to incorporate it into my daily routine by drinking a cup of hot water with a small amount of Nigari. However, I didn't feel any significant effects at first. One day, I watched a YouTube channel about health and wellness that mentioned adding Nigari to your bath. This type of Nigari, called "Nigari Onsen," is said to be effective when you add 100cc to your bath each time. I bought some online and tried it right away. Although it was only 100cc, the bathwater felt noticeably milder than before. What surprised me the most was that, after using it, I didn’t wake up in the middle of the night to use the bathroom, which was something I normally experienced. Japanese Nigari is primarily produced in Kagawa and Izu Island. It is truly a source of pride for Japan.

  I have been attending a candle-making school. In Japan, when we think of candles, we often associate them with family altars. This was my assumption as well. Traditionally, candles in Japan are thin and white. However, one day, I had a sudden burst of inspiration and decided to start attending a candle-making school. The school is located in Minamisenjyu, Arakawa-ku, Tokyo. While I was familiar with Kitasenjyu, it was my first time getting off at Minamisenjyu on the first day of class. I took a trial one-day course and created a candle using the school’s original mold. It was truly a joyful experience for me. Now, I continue to attend the school, but I have yet to master the craft because of the complex techniques invented by the teacher.

  It’s been a while since I last saw the winter night illumination at Tokyo Midtown, Roppongi. This year's display was truly special—it was beautiful, gorgeous, and thoughtfully designed. A standout feature of this year's illumination was the soap bubbles. Every six minutes, white soap bubbles floated into the scene, adding a cute and fantastic touch. It really made my mind feel rich and joyful. I’m already looking forward to next year’s display! Tokyo MidTown Roppongi 9-7-1, Akasaka, Tokyo, Japan

  Many travelers gather around and take pictures of this beautiful building, which was built with brick. The station features a hotel, as well as cafes and restaurants that offer high-quality meals in a sophisticated atmosphere. I believe it is the most beautiful station in Japan. One of the traditional Japanese sweet cafes here is "Toraya." Toraya was founded after the Muromachi period in Kyoto and has been one of the purveyors to the Imperial Household Agency. It is said that when the Emperor moved from Kyoto to Tokyo in 1869, Toraya accompanied him and opened a shop in Tokyo. Today, we can enjoy Toraya's delicious sweets on the two floors of Tokyo Station Hotel. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese sweet called Oshiruko . Although Oshiruko is traditionally eaten during New Year's, I decided to try it ahead of time. It reminded me of Hayaben , a bento meal that people traditionally eat before lunchtime. Toraya in Tokyo station hotel 1-9-1 2F, Marunouchi, Tokyo, Japan

  Today, I visited the National Museum of Western Art in Ueno, Tokyo, where I had the chance to see Monet’s Water Lilies on display. I've previously seen this iconic series three times at the Musée de l'Orangerie in Paris. Each time I saw them, I was struck by their incredible beauty. Despite this, I never fully understood why they had such a profound impact on me. However, seeing Monet's Water Lilies in Ueno today helped me understand a little more about that initial shock. The exhibition in Tokyo was relatively small, but it allowed me to connect with Monet’s intentions. He once mentioned that he hoped to offer viewers a sense of meditation through his water lilies. Looking at the painting today, I realized that the impact I felt was due to the sense of healing and meditation that these works provide. It was a deeper understanding of how Monet used his art to offer peace and reflection. Photos by Tsukubu The National Museum of Western Art 7-7, Ueno Park, Tokyo, Japan

  They say Roppongi is one of the most famous nightlife districts, along with Kabukicho in Shinjuku. At night, you can see many foreigners who have a slightly dangerous air. Of course, there are also many nightclubs, where beautiful women work in gorgeous dresses. But what makes Roppongi interesting is not just its nightlife. There is a beautiful park called Hinokicho Park , which was once the residence of a Mouri-related daimyo during the Edo period. Even in mid-December, the park still has colorful leaves. As I walked quietly in the park, I felt my mind becoming peaceful. I even saw a strange bird. Where did it come from? Maybe it knows the silence of Roppongi—but does it also know the noise of Roppongi? Photos by Tsukubu Hinokicho Park 9-7-9, Akasaka, Tokyo, Japan

  My recommended set meal: "Nagoya-Gozen" After the meal, they serve a glass of Ume-sake There is a restaurant I love in Roppongi, Tokyo, called "Suzunami." This restaurant specializes in fish dishes and serves a variety of fish, such as silver cod, barracuda, Spanish mackerel, and more, prepared using a traditional pickling technique from the Nagoya area. The technique, known as "Moriguchi pickles," uses sake lees and mirin, which is a sweet type of sake lees. Originally, this method was used for pickling vegetables like Moriguchi daikon radishes, cucumbers, and others. However, this restaurant has expanded its application of the pickling technique to include fish. The fish here is absolutely breathtakingly delicious. While you can purchase the pickled fish to cook at home, it is quite challenging to prepare in a home kitchen because it burns easily. Photos by Tsukubu Suzunami 9-7-3, Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan

  I drink miso soup with every meal. I don’t have breakfast, but I cook lunch and dinner for myself, so I enjoy miso soup twice a day. When I make miso soup, I sometimes use mushrooms like shimeji, nameko, or kikurage. Other times, I add dried ingredients such as freeze-dried tofu, dried strips of daikon radish, and dried wakame seaweed. I always include a handful of dried bonito flakes, which give the soup a deep umami flavor. The presence of dried bonito flakes significantly enhances the quality of miso soup. Dried bonito flakes are a unique seasoning from Japan, and I recently discovered that their history goes back further than I imagined—to the Jomon period! Today, 50% of Japan's dried bonito flakes are produced in Katsurazaki, Kagoshima. Photos by Tsukubu